part eight
If ever a song reminded me of Tallinn it
will always be this, for we spent so long tracking down these little dolls for my
step-grandpa. We never found them and he had to buy different ones that he
wasn't in love with, but that was okay. I loved the one I bought for my mom,
but I bought it the moment I laid eyes on it and that's how you have to shop,
I've decided. I loved feeling like I was all alone; we wandered the city
without a tour guide and took our time finding the castle and listening to the
men playing violins in the courtyard. If ever I return I will go by myself and
I'll go through the same shops for nostalgia's sake, but the graffiti on the
walls outside will probably be different. I probably won't find
"Retrofuturism: Translinguistic Futurism" spray-painted on a fence
again. I don't even know what that phrase means but I think it has something to
do with the narrow, decrepit cobblestone streets with sleek white security
cameras precariously secured to the peeling brick buildings.
I only wandered around Old Tallinn
but I found buildings with strange metal rods attached to the walls for no
apparent reason other than to help intrepid assassins reach arched rooftops.
Street bands of teenagers played Western songs in every square for whatever
coin you might be carrying, and how could I not give money and applause to the
boys proudly trumpeting through "Eye of the Tiger"?
The McDonald's in Tallinn accepted
any type of money and even though it's not called a "Quarter Pounder"
in Estonia, the cashier understood what I wanted well enough and the ketchup
even tasted the same - slightly more acidic than that of any other fast food
restaurant. It offered free wifi, too, and for once I didn't mind being the
tourist who goes to McDonald's instead of eating locally. In my defense I was
traveling with my grandparents, which made for not quite an adventure as the backpacking-through-Europe
trip I guess I was supposed to take (but really, is that any better a
stereotype than being a tourist? I don't really see the difference, myself).
The street signs were confusing,
though, even if they had English translations on the bottom. Our map was
terrible but I liked getting lost.
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